Friday, 6 January 2012

Adze Block/Table Vice

I eventually got round to making my Adze Block today, I've been wanting to make this since i got my Adze at Christmas, but unfortunately the weather has been very much against me, sure i could have gone down the workshop and done it, but i like making things like this outside, where i can 'spread out' a bit.

The block is made from a good sized piece of Oak that i collected when we took down a dead tree at the lakes, when researching adze blocks, i looked at all manner of different solutions, from some fairly elaborate bowl horses, to many different designs of blocks and flat tables, i elected in the end to go with a table type design, although i do have a nice Elm log on standby, just in case i cant get on with the table design.

Hultafors HVK To Show Scale
All i did to make this table/block/vice, was to put four stumpy legs on the underside of the log slice to lift it up off the ground and then with my one inch Scotch Eyed Auger i augured a hole at the rear of the log to take a carved Oak back stop, this sits on a tapered peg and is a very tight fit in the hole, but unlike other designs I've seen that use a couple of pegs at the rear, i figured a large lump of Oak that leans forward slightly is the better option, why does it lean forward?, simple, when I'm adzing if the work piece starts to rise at that end it will only ever grip itself tighter against the angled back stop.

The height of the back stop allows bigger pieces of wood to be held safely in place safely, as well as offering a stop should the adze skip on the work piece when making shallower cuts, the work pieces are held in place on the block/table via a smaller peg made from Elm/Ash that locates at the front end of the work piece in one of a series of augured holes, which again go all the way through the log, i augured these all the way through for a couple of reasons, One; it allows rain water to drain away, Two; It allows me to tap out the tight fitting tapered pegs from the other side if i need too, the front pegs are made from wood that has a natural curve in it, the curve in the peg is placed facing the work piece so it grips it.

When the work piece is located on the block, it's pushed back hard against the rear stop, the front peg is then put into the closest peg hole to the front of the work and then to tighten it all up, i place a wedge, made from Oak, in between the peg and work piece and tap it home using a small wooden maul,  this gives a very secure fit, to the point that i can lift the entire block up by the work piece and not have it slip one little bit.

Ive made a few different sized retaining pegs, so i have a peg to suit the log I'm working on, short ones for small logs and taller ones, well for larger logs, having used the block this afternoon with my lovely new Hans Karlsson adze, i can say it works really well and grips the work piece nice and tight and there is little or no movement in the fore and aft plane when using the adze, i will need to add a couple of pegs along the sides though to counter act some lateral movement, ast the moment though, I'm happy with my block/vice/table, now all i need to do is get some larger sections of wood and get adzing - keep you posted on my progress.